Toodle To The Noodle

America’s 20th president, James Garfield, once said that man cannot live by bread alone—“he must have peanut butter.” To paraphrase that witticism: We cannot live by food alone—we need good restaurants. Each week, Eagle Rock Patch will pick a great restaurant either in the neighborhood or nearby that is worth trying out. Here's this week's choice:

Viet Noodle Bar—I went to Hanoi in 1992, just after the U.S. lifted its post-Vietnam War ban on organized travel to the Asian nation, and my Hong Kong expat friends and I flooded the streets hungering for lacquered paintings, authentic pho and 33 Biere. Hanoi was vigorously shaking off its international isolation and a couple of cool, atmospheric restaurants had sprung up, serving the freshest rice noodles and squid pulled straight out of Halong Bay and smothered in chili, scallions and cilantro.

Viet Noodle in nearby Atwater Village reminds me of Hanoi during its early days of modern metamorphosis. Opened in 2007 by restaurateur Viet Trang, it seemed to take shape overnight—a spare, spacious brick-lined box with a vintage Vespa, Hanoi’s vehicle of choice, parked in front of the kitchen, and good second-hand books, the kind you wish you had, stacked up against a wall. The long wooden main dining table is communal, making every meal there feel like a spontaneous dinner party peopled with bloggers, indie filmmakers and sound artists.

And then there’s the food. My husband and I always start with jicama fresh rolls ($5), stuffed with tofu, basil and shallots, and served with peanut sauce. On winter days, I opt for the pho ga, organic chicken in a clear broth ($9.25). I used to swear by the soyskin noodle ($8.50), which has thin, pressed sheets of tofu rolled up into bite-sized bits, rice noodles (no broth) and a heaping of fresh herbs. But since Viet Trang introduced the turmeric fish noodle—white fish marinated in soymilk, dill and turmeric—and served on a mound of rice noodles, that has been my go-to dish ($8.50). The Vietnamese sandwiches—French rolls stuffed with tofu and shitake, sardines, chicken or white fish ($5.75 to $6.75)—are a tasty epicurean reminder of France and Vietnam’s intertwined destinies.

 I feast at Viet Noodle and never spend more than $20 (and you can always find free parking on Atwater’s residential streets). Best of all, if I ride my 50’s-inspired Linus Bike there, Viet Trang always lets me park it inside, in front of one of the picture windows. Afterward, I wander down the village streets a few shops north to the vintage bookstore, Alias, feeling full and happy and dreaming of Hanoi.

Viet Noodle Bar, 3133 1/2 Glendale Blvd., 90039, 323-906-1575. Open daily for lunch and dinner, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Prices: $5.75 to $9.50 for entrees. Click here to visit the Viet Noodle Bar facebook page.